A couple of us we looking to take a low key rock climbing vacation in an interesting area. Shell was looking at seaside climbing but in a culture that was interesting. I’m looking for low key since next year will be anything but (had just got two permits to solo two peaks in Nepal). Larry was looking for interesting climbing and Stace was looking for wine. Paging through an older climbing magazine we see pictures of a climber weaving their way through wild rock formations above the ocean. Yup, that’s the ticket.

In September after the hordes of Germans have gone back to work (yeah, right…) we find ourselves taking the Ferry from Rome to Olbia on the island of Sardinia. We arrive in the port of Olbia way too late (especially given the jetlag) and I find myself driving down to the town of Cala Ganone lat at night. To stay awake we ponder the negative effects of nursery rhymns, yep every one ends with morbid outcomes……and if you forget a line, you can always use “eating their curds and weigh”

Passing through the town of Doragali, 10 km from Cala Ganone at midnight we notice everyone is still enjoying their appetizers at dinner, ok…. It’s a little bit different then the US. In CalaGanone we stay at L’Oasi (a hotel on the cliffs above Cala Ganone) and Mr. Massimo wasn’t thrilled that we arrived so late. We give him a bottle of wine to make amends (Stace works for a California vineyard).

The next morning after breakfast we walk down the hill from our place and walk along the shore to a crag named Biddiriscottai, a huge crag with bolted 5.13’s on the left side, a bunch of bolted 5.7-5.10’s in the back of the cave and a bunch of 5.12’s on the right side, (the cave is maybe 200yrd wide and maybe 75ft deep sitting next to the Mediterranean). There we do a bunch of routes between 5.11c and 5.12c, in come of the most fun , and bizarre sports climbing I’ve ever done. Routes that we did and I’d recommend are listed below. After climbing we take off our gear, jump into suits and swim in the Mediterranean. The water was a beautiful azure and the temps were wonderful. We finish the day by wondering into town and checking out the climb/dive shop (interesting combo; and shoes for 70 euros) and finish by eating dinner.

The next day we walk from the hotel to the port and rent a boat to go to Cala Luna in the morning. Cala Luna is separated into two areas, the slabs which is a 300ft cliff of bolted 5.9’s to 5.11a’s and the seaside cliffs and caves which go from 6c (5.11b) to 8a+/b- (5.13d’ish). Bad choice, we arrive at the cliffs at 10am and they are baking in the sun. I start up our warmup (a 7a) and quickly look like a snowman in the Sahara. In a short 80ft I have lost sooo much water through sweat that I need to drink 2 liters and then lay down. We find shelter in a cave with a climb Araj, a highly recommended climb if you can do it. After the heat I am toast and I take a dip in the water. By 2pm the cliffs go in the shade (note: next time go to Cala Luna in the afternoon).

The third day we go to a nearby area named Cala Fuili, a series of cliffs with routes from 5.5 to 5.14c. The best being Settore Pederiva. There we do several very high quality climbs. Note: several climbs have changed since the release of the guidebooks by Rockfax and also the book Pietra di Luna. From the look of the scars it looks like it has occurred in the last few months and the routes have become more difficult. See notes below. We finish the day at the beach at the mouth of the Fuili canyon. Interesting beach, gorgous sands and water with an attitude much more liberal then many of the typical european beaches.

After this we wonder the island but don’t get a lot of climbing in for the next few days checking out the ruins scattered amoung the islands dating back several centuries BC.

It’s a place I definitely would like to return to but bring two ropes. The guidebooki Pietra di Luna list several highly recommended routes that are 10-15 pitches long (bolted some rather sporty). The best being a 5.14b with 20-30m fall potentials (ouch, too much for me) but also many routes within reach of mortals like Via Wolfgang Gulliech (a 14 pitch 7a-7a+/ 5.11d-5.12a) and a 5 pitch route up a seaside pinnacle (Cala Goloritze) called Sole Incantatore 6c (5.11b which can be aided but obligatory 6b which is 5.10d). There is also an interesting area called Gritstone with routes that look like their British counterparts with gear protected, VERY runout climbing at a high level (up to about 5.13a). looks very interesting.

Beta:
Flight: San Franscisco-Rome: $520 (you can fly from JFK to London to Sardinia but the car rental will be more expensive)
Ferry to Olbia: 5.5hrs/$350 roundtrip with 4.2m car + 4 people
Olbia to Cala Ganone 2hrs
Place to stay: L’Oasi : Owned by Mr. Massimo
Food and Wine: If you have to ask, your blind…. This is Italy

Guidebook:

Start with Rockfax series, Sardinia: Seaside Climbs and Sardinia: Inland Climbs
Then in Cala Galanone from the bookstore next to the supermarket (3 doors down from the climbing/diveshop) pick up “Pietra di Luna” from Maurizio Oviglia (can be found in an English version there:

Routes
Cala Luna:
Il Guru (7a/ 5.11d) Ok climbing
Araj (7a+ - 7b/ 5.12a/b) absolutely awesome

Fuili
Brontolo (6c+/5.11c) good climbing and you can toprope a VERY bouldery 5.12b/c from its anchors
Viva Le Pastiglie (6c+/5.11c) pretty good climbing
Ciao mio Bell’alpin (6c+/5.11c) rockfall probably has raised the grade to 7a/5.11d but very fun climbing
Power Trio (7a/5.11d) very good thoughtful climbing
Malu (6b) good for a warmup
Pinocchio (6c+/5.11c) fun climbing
Cappuccetto Rosso (7a/5.11d) stunning climbing among tufas

Biddiriscottai
Abberrante extension (6c+/5.11c)
SenzeNome (6c+/5.11c)
Schiavi Della Pietra (7a+/5.12a) very technical climbing among tufas and stalagtites
La Spalliera Direct (7b+/5.12c) Incrediable with thought provoking moves out a 45-60degree roof
La Spalliera (7a+/5.12a)
C’est la Vie (7a+/512a)