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#34568 - 11/20/07 11:58 PM
Bonnie' Rap
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BobbyS
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Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 356
Loc: None
(66.108.108.108)
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We were racked up for the y.w. when a nearby climber asked for some assistance...He had rapped from the top of Bonnie's apparently with a 60m and was free hanging 15 feet from the wall without prussiks and quite a ways above the ground....I thought in the past my 60m made it to the ledge 20 feet off the ground? I have climbed this route at least 6 times and rarely carry an extra rope?
There is still an intermediate anchor below the direct variation, but it most likely a pain to get to. The other two anchors that used to be there are now gone (the one for the Throne) and there used to be another above this one...but I guess those are probably a hassle to get to as well.
You can climb down and (climbers) left and there is a station around a tree, which with one rope, gets you to the Ants Line bolts. High E is not that far off. There are also some mank in the gully (climbers) left of Bonnie's.
Rich Gottlieb got there just before us and was nice enough to run up Silly Chimney and drop them a rope.
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#34573 - 11/21/07 09:56 AM
Re: Bonnie' Rap
[Re: BobbyS]
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Daniel
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Registered: 05/23/01
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A 60 from the top of Bonnie's leaves you hanging in the air quite a ways from the cliff face and quite a ways off the ground. I doubt the old (now gone) rats nest of slings on the way up would have been accessible.
I never really liked the short scramble to the climbers left to the rap that goes to the Ant's Line bolts, plus it's two raps. I did the trip up and over to the High E rap on a hot and humid day, and it was brutal, far higher up than I had thought (and three raps to boot). I think by far the easiest way with a 60m single is go to the tree by Silly Chimney: one rap, and a short scramble.
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#34575 - 11/21/07 10:25 AM
Re: Bonnie' Rap
[Re: Daniel]
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dalguard
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Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1411
Loc: CT
(69.0.100.94)
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Rapping Bonnie's with one 60 will leave you hanging in air. Unless 60 meters has gotten shorter or Bonnie's has gotten taller, that's always been true.
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#34576 - 11/21/07 11:50 AM
Re: Bonnie' Rap
[Re: dalguard]
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rg@ofmc
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Registered: 12/24/99
Posts: 1697
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
(205.188.117.202)
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Downclimbing Silly Chimney can be done with a ten-foot piece of clothesline, since you don't actually use a rope at all. Of course, that's how Gottlieb got back down after his rescue.
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#34588 - 11/21/07 06:00 PM
Re: Bonnie' Rap
[Re: rg@ofmc]
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RangerRob
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Registered: 06/05/00
Posts: 2362
Loc: Ulster County, NY
(24.161.28.162)
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This happens a lot on Bonnies. It is definitely a "Durrr..I'm an idiot" moment.
RR
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#34597 - 11/23/07 12:43 PM
Re: Bonnie' Rap
[Re: RangerRob]
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rg@ofmc
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Registered: 12/24/99
Posts: 1697
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
(64.12.117.202)
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I guess the problem with Bonnie's is that because of it's immense height and the uniquely refractive air layer underneath, when you peek over the edge all you can see is the Groovy Blueberry in New Palz and so it is impossible to tell if the ropes reach the ground.
That together with the well-known axiom that if you can't tell whether the ropes reach the ground, it is important to make sure you have nothing with you that would help you to get yourself out of a jam.
But not to worry, as long as you've backed up the belay loop on your harness and your anchor is rigged so that it remains intact even after 34 of the 35 strands are cut. Just wait for Gottlieb to solo up the Silly Chimney, drop you a rope, lower you to the ground, and then solo back down the Silly Chimney. Now that's what I call a redundant system.
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#34600 - 11/23/07 06:07 PM
Re: Bonnie' Rap
[Re: rg@ofmc]
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Coppertone
old hand
Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 847
Loc: Newtown, CT
(24.151.21.239)
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Rich, such dry, biting sarchasm. I knew we would finally have a positive influence on you.
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#34601 - 11/23/07 06:43 PM
Re: Bonnie' Rap
[Re: Coppertone]
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rg@ofmc
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Registered: 12/24/99
Posts: 1697
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
(205.188.117.202)
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There once was a climber named Brown
who rappelled when his ends weren't down.
Not to worry said he
I'll just shout, "Rescue me!"
But alas---Gottlieb was in town.
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#34603 - 11/23/07 08:41 PM
Re: Bonnie' Rap
[Re: rg@ofmc]
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Mike Rawdon
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Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 3521
Loc: Poughkeepsie
(69.121.98.114)
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There once was a climber named Bixby,
Who rapped a 50 when he needed a 60.
As he flew through the air
He hadn't a care,
"For I'm sure that the medics will fix me."
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#34604 - 11/23/07 09:45 PM
Re: Bonnie' Rap
[Re: Mike Rawdon]
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rg@ofmc
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Registered: 12/24/99
Posts: 1697
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
(205.188.117.202)
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Er...Mike...was that something we learned to do this weekend?
Gotta check my manual...
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