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#34608 - 11/24/07 10:29 AM Nose Drops?
Bill
newbie


Registered: 06/18/03
Posts: 37
Loc: Mass Land
(68.112.255.24)

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A couple of Saturdays ago it was getting late and we were looking for something to cool down on when I spotted a webbing anchor I hadn't noticed before under the overhang directly above the start to Ursula. My partner led up Ursula to the point where it diagonals right and followed the line of chalk up to the webbing. I believe I recall, and my recall isn't the greatest, this line jogged left a few feet and then up a groove/shallow LF dihedral.

I cleaned on TR. Found the climbing to be very nice with the same quality rock as Ursula but steeper with more features, a couple of jugs, several flakes, etc. I recall that it seem to go at 5.6 but I'm a relative newbie and not good at judging ratings. I'm currently comfortably leading 5.8s at the Gunks. My partner is no help since although he TRs and sport climbs at the 5.10d level he is newer to trad than me and has no head for ratings at all.

I stepped up and poked my head over the overhang before getting lowered. I didn't see any obvious jugs and nothing chalked up. However the light was getting dim and beers were calling so I didn't spend a lot of time checking things out.

Can anyone help me out about what we climbed leading up to the webbing anchor and does a route go directly above the webbing anchor. Subsequent check of the Gray Dick makes Nose Drops a candidate but the description and the photo didn't seem consistent with what I climbed and observed. The line we took to the webbing anchor seemed to be slightly to left of Nose Drops.

In addition, the description and photo for Nose Drops in the Gray Dick seem inconsistent in themselves. The description says that upon reaching the overhang "Traverse right to the Ursula/Groovy belay ledge/rap station." However the line drawn in the photo seems to show the route going over an overhang distinctly to the left of the Ursula/Groovy rap station and not intersecting Ursula at all.

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#34968 - 12/26/07 09:50 AM Re: Nose Drops? [Re: Bill]
Steven Cherry Moderator
veteran


Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1265
Loc: New York, N.Y.
(66.108.163.79)

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I'm a little confused by the question. You weren't on In The Groove, 5.6? Between Groovy and the chimney in the corner.
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#34995 - 12/27/07 08:01 PM Re: Nose Drops? [Re: Steven Cherry]
Bill
newbie


Registered: 06/18/03
Posts: 37
Loc: Mass Land
(68.112.255.24)

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 Quote:
I'm a little confused by the question.


Just a little confused? Then my work here is not yet done!

Only kidding. No, I'm quite familiar with the routes in the vicinity, we were no where near In The Groove.

If you stand at the start to Ursula and look straight up you will see webbing directly under the overhang about 75 feet up. To reach this webbing anchor we did the first bit, maybe 30 feet, of Ursula and then continued straight up as it jogs off to the right.

At first glance the Gray Dick led me to believe we were following Nose Drops. However I don't think anything I climbed from Ursula to the webbing anchor went at anything near 5.9. But as I indicated in my original post, I'm pretty bad at this grade thing. The bit we did was chalked up and thus seemed to have been getting some traffic.

Saw no chalk at all when I stepped up and stuck my head above the overhang at the webbing anchor. However it was far from a thorough recon.

Any info you have would be welcome. Next time I'm down that way and have more time I plan on taking a more thorough look at the terrain above the anchor.


Bill

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