0 registered
and 4 anonymous users online.
|
|
|
#35384 - 01/28/08 09:18 PM
Gear suggestions
|
tomd
stranger
Registered: 01/28/08
Posts: 3
(71.185.159.120)
|
Offline
|
|
Hey, I have never been to the Gunks, but I plan to head up this summer. I'm posting a list of my rack and was wondering if I can get some opinions of holes that I would be best to fill for a trip to the gunks. I know it depends on the route, but any general suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I expect to get some comments on holes in my active gear.
.1 Camalot, Black Diamond
.5 Camalot, Black Diamond
.2 Camalot, Black Diamond
#4 Stopper, Black Diamond
#5 Stopper, Black Diamond
#5 Stopper, Black Diamond
#6 Stopper, Black Diamond
#6 Stopper, Black Diamond
#7 Stopper, Black Diamond
#7 Stopper, Black Diamond
#8 Stopper, Black Diamond
#8 Stopper, Black Diamond
#9 Stopper, Black Diamond
#9 Stopper, Black Diamond
#10 Stopper, Black Diamond
#10 Stopper, Black Diamond
#11 Stopper, Black Diamond
#12 Stopper, Black Diamond
#13 Stopper, Black Diamond
#6 Hex, Black Diamond
#8 Hex, Black Diamond
#10 Hex, Black Diamond
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#35385 - 01/28/08 11:43 PM
Re: Gear suggestions
[Re: tomd]
|
CrackBoy
CrazyHair *
Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2414
Loc: Republic of Davis
(75.22.189.217)
|
|
Offline
|
|
i would say pick up a .75 and maybe a .5 and add the 3 smallest tricams and you are good on anything up to 5.6 or so
_________________________
Just Call me Mr. Enthusiasm
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#35392 - 01/29/08 11:06 AM
Re: Gear suggestions
[Re: CrackBoy]
|
chip
Site Supporter
Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 1136
Loc: Delaware, U.S.A.
(141.158.57.44)
|
|
Offline
|
|
All things being relative, it depends on the experience and grade of routes you plan to climb. Many folk carry stoppers, doubled cams for the sizes they like. I carry a set of C3s for small cams, and then a green alien or two with doubled .4-.75 camalots, as well as a #1,2 and 3 camalot. I also carry a couple tricams. Many would find this excessive and in my younger days I might have agreed, when I couldn't yet afford them. When there were many more fixed pins around much less gear was needed on classic moderates. Most guide books will make rack suggestions and Dick Williams is very careful to describe any absolutely neccessary pieces for a particular climb up to about 5.9, at which point he figures you know enough to carry what you need.
Enjoy.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#35405 - 01/30/08 11:06 AM
Re: Gear suggestions
[Re: chip]
|
GOclimb
Site Supporter
Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 1996
Loc: Boston
(66.150.206.1)
|
|
Offline
|
|
Am I reading correctly that you have three cams, that they top out at about an inch, and have a big gap in the middle?
Um... yeah, you could use some more cams.
GO
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#35420 - 01/30/08 10:52 PM
Re: Gear suggestions
[Re: tomd]
|
tomd
stranger
Registered: 01/28/08
Posts: 3
(96.227.119.104)
|
|
Offline
|
|
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I really appreciate the feedback. I actually put down .1 instead of 1 camelot. I updated my rack list with some of the suggestions from your posts. I know that I am still a little scarce in the Cams, but I'm hoping that this rack will get me up most 5.4-5.6 routes for my 1st trip up there. I'm waiting for the guide book to come in, so I will sureley take a look at that before I head up.
.2 Camalot, Black Diamond
.4 Camalot, Black Diamond
.5 Camalot, Black Diamond
.5 Camalot, Black Diamond
.75 Camalot, Black Diamond
1 Camalot, Black Diamond
3 Camalot (new), Black Diamond
#4 Stopper, Black Diamond
#5 Stopper, Black Diamond
#5 Stopper, Black Diamond
#6 Stopper, Black Diamond
#6 Stopper, Black Diamond
#7 Stopper, Black Diamond
#7 Stopper, Black Diamond
#8 Stopper, Black Diamond
#8 Stopper, Black Diamond
#9 Stopper, Black Diamond
#9 Stopper, Black Diamond
#10 Stopper, Black Diamond
#10 Stopper, Black Diamond
#11 Stopper, Black Diamond
#12 Stopper, Black Diamond
#13 Stopper, Black Diamond
#6 Hex, Black Diamond
#8 Hex, Black Diamond
#10 Hex, Black Diamond
.5 Tri-Cam, Camp
1 Tri-Cam, Camp
1.5 Tri-Cam, Camp
2 Tri-Cams, Camp
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#35422 - 01/30/08 10:54 PM
Re: Gear suggestions
[Re: tomd]
|
tomd
stranger
Registered: 01/28/08
Posts: 3
(96.227.119.104)
|
|
Offline
|
|
Oh ya, I forgot to mention this before- If anyone is interested in keeping track of your rack and creating custom racks for certain climbs, there is a great free program at:
http://www.racksimulator.com/
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#35423 - 01/30/08 11:00 PM
Re: Gear suggestions
[Re: tomd]
|
mworking
addict
Registered: 05/26/04
Posts: 613
(68.44.182.217)
|
|
Offline
|
|
The obvious missing piece in now a #2 Camalot. After adding that you'd have pretty basic rack likely similar to what many "middle generation climbers started with. How you feel about climbing with it really depends more about you than the rack itself.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#35434 - 01/31/08 10:03 AM
Re: Gear suggestions
[Re: mworking]
|
dalguard
site supporter
Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1391
Loc: CT
(69.0.100.94)
|
|
Offline
|
|
My guess is that the .2 is a #2. Maybe this guy works for Verizon.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#35580 - 02/13/08 03:14 PM
Re: Gear suggestions
[Re: dalguard]
|
acdnyc
journeyman
Registered: 11/10/04
Posts: 87
Loc: NYC
(66.234.243.10)
|
|
Offline
|
|
Add metolius tcus from #1(blue)-#4(red). They fit the many pin scares you will find on most climbs. That is if you have the cash.
I have the 0(purple) and 00(grey). I only use those when I aid.
_________________________
jugs or mugs
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#35677 - 02/22/08 03:38 PM
Re: Gear suggestions
[Re: acdnyc]
|
Arms
Pooh-Bah
Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1756
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
(69.43.28.166)
|
|
Offline
|
|
I feel confident in the Metolius 0 and 00 TCUs as lead pieces if the placement and rock are good. However, Wild Country makes a couple of tinier ones that I wouldn't trust except for aid.
Just my 2 cents.
_________________________
Arms
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
Moderator: daryl512
|
|
