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#36466 - 04/11/08 02:29 PM
Devil's Lake Wisconson
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Dooger
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Registered: 05/07/01
Posts: 47
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Anyone climbed out there. I'm going out there in a month or so and I"m wondering if anyone has any experience out there. 95% of my climbing has been done in the gunks, and from what I understand it's a lot of toproping.
Here's what I'm trying to figure out:
Will the typical gunks rack (aliens camalots to #3, stoppers, tricams) work for leading there?
How long is long when it comes to toprope runners. I was thinking of bringing 3 pieces of webbing between 30' and 50'. Think that'll be enough, or is it too much.
I just don't relish the idea of heading out there and not having the right gear to climb with.
If anyone can enlighten me or has been out there and can offer some info, that'd be great.
-d
Edited by Dooger (04/11/08 02:30 PM)
Edit Reason: oops, dropped a word
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#36468 - 04/11/08 06:58 PM
Re: Devil's Lake Wisconson
[Re: Dooger]
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socialist1
member
Registered: 08/05/04
Posts: 122
Loc: New Brunswick, NJ
(67.85.180.139)
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I havent climbed there but climbed for a while with a guy who did.
Rack wise I think you are good. The rock is good and hard there but apparently slick, so watch your cam placements.
I think that sounds pretty good for TR anchors. From what I gathered, most are close to the edge.
Let me know if you want further advice, I can get in touch with my friend.
Cheers,
Ross
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#36516 - 04/18/08 01:34 AM
Re: Devil's Lake Wisconson
[Re: Dooger]
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Alex
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Registered: 08/15/00
Posts: 163
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I climbed there just for a couple days years ago, just leading the more classic longer climbs up to 5.9.
The cliffs were quite similiar to the Gunks, but way shorter. Only the longer routes (which were still short) held my interest.
Gear: I would think that a Gunks rack would be plenty, since the cliffs aren't even half a pitch. I would take those 3 slings since I recall the top not being as treed as the Gunks.
The cliffs, although short, still have a nice view and feeling. And as a Gunks climber you should feel at home on the horizontal strata cut by cracks and corners.
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#36522 - 04/18/08 02:33 PM
Re: Devil's Lake Wisconson
[Re: Alex]
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JBeta
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Registered: 01/28/08
Posts: 1
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Dooger,
I learned to climb at Devil's lake and climbed there for ten years before moving to New Hampshire. As for gear, I'd say that a standard Gunks rack will suffice for the Lake. Maybe add a few more small wires. For TRing, bring lots of webbing (fifty feet seems about right), as it's common to tie off trees and pieces way far from the edge.
The rock at the Lake is similar to the slickest that can be found at the Gunks, so you should feel right at home. Let me know if you want further beta or route recommendations.
Hope this helps,
Jay
Edited by JBeta (04/18/08 02:34 PM)
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#37124 - 05/20/08 04:22 PM
Re: Devil's Lake Wisconson
[Re: JBeta]
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Dooger
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Registered: 05/07/01
Posts: 47
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Thanks to all for the advice. So, it's interesting that the guidebook doesn't have gear ratings (as in: G, PG, R, X).
Did you just eyeball it from the ground to see if there was good gear for a climb. Is it THAT short?
Is most of it fairly safe to lead? Or is most of it a horror show and I should be very cautious about setting off from the ground.
Obviously I'll use my best judgment in the case of any given climb, but it's curious that protection ratings aren't even mentioned in the guide. Except in a few places where it says "good gear". Given that it seems rare that a climb is mentioned as having "good gear" my current my plan is to be overly cautious.
I'll be out there in two days. Should be fun.
Cheers all and thanks,
-d
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#37150 - 05/21/08 11:49 PM
Re: Devil's Lake Wisconson
[Re: Dooger]
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MarcC
Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 2794
Loc: Sandy, UT
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So, it's interesting that the guidebook doesn't have gear ratings (as in: G, PG, R, X).
While many guidebooks now include them, it's best to remember that pro ratings are optional, not part of the YDS, and even more subjective and opinionated than difficulty ratings.
_________________________
- Marc
Proud Member of the Reality-Based Community
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#37441 - 05/30/08 12:10 PM
Re: Devil's Lake Wisconson
[Re: MarcC]
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whipper
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Registered: 05/30/08
Posts: 2
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Devil’s Lake is awesome! Almost everything can be top roped. Leads can be dicey as friction is almost non existent. The rock is purple with green lichen. You can see fossils with patterns from sand under the ancient oceans. It is truly an incredible spot. With out it I would have gone insane during my stay at UW Madison. Check out Birch Tree Crack 5.8, and Cleo’s Needle 5.5?, a free standing tower that shakes as you rappel!
And let us know how your trip went.
_________________________
Climb High!
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