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#36597 - 04/21/08 08:31 PM Nemesis no more....
fear
member


Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 172
Loc: New England
(71.234.126.213)

Offline
Check out Nemesis if you're in the area of the Glypto's.

The whole climb when combined with Midnight Cowboy as the 3rd pitch should be a 2-3 star!

First Bouldery moves are pretty neat at go at 10a 'if' you're tall. 10b or c if you're below 5'8" or so. But it's a very short crux. A 000 C-3 and a couple piano-string uber tiny BD micros "protect" the initial moves but a spotter or pad wouldn't be a bad idea either. Belay 60' up at a small tree, don't keep going as rope drag would kill you.

Second pitch is pretty awesome face-->Underclinging--->powerful roofs at 9(+ ish) with adequate pro the whole way up.

For the 3rd pitch do Midnight Cowboy. Step right on the GT ledge about 40-50(?) feet and go up at a tiny triple-tiered rooflet. Be careful here as the pro ain't so good in the beginning(5.8). A tiny cam and the smallest ball-nut protect the first roof, maybe a couple tiny C-3's/Aliens too. Then straight up to a huge pointed rock sticking out from the GT ledge. The last moves go out the alcove under the giant roof to the arete(think Thin Slabs direct on steroids and without the pins).

Pro is good if you have the first three BD micronuts to stack in an initial placement. Then a bomber purple Camalot high and to the right protect the climb very well. Lot's of air if you should plummet....

Have fun. There won't be any lines!
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#36612 - 04/22/08 08:38 AM Re: Nemesis no more.... [Re: fear]
Smike
Pooh-Bah *


Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 2620
Loc: The land of HomeImprovement
(207.86.125.3)

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Fear, why you gotta do that? That climb is my back up climb on a crowded weekend....
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#36614 - 04/22/08 09:05 AM Re: Nemesis no more.... [Re: Smike]
fear
member


Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 172
Loc: New England
(71.234.126.213)

Offline
Oh... and it's all loose, lichen-covered, and there's a mandatory awkward 5.9 OW on the second pitch.

There.... that'll fix it.
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#36616 - 04/22/08 09:58 AM Re: Nemesis no more.... [Re: fear]
Architect
enthusiast


Registered: 08/19/04
Posts: 203
Loc: north by northeast (from jerse...
(65.215.111.157)

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I was looking at this just the past weekend, sadly the party I was with said it looked a little to manky. So I walked down to Ruby Saterday and got the same response sigh maybe this weekend
_________________________
-Karl - Looking for a clucking partner
www.genxclimbing.com

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#36617 - 04/22/08 10:05 AM Re: Nemesis no more.... [Re: Architect]
Coppertone
old hand


Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 828
Loc: Newtown, CT
(209.113.235.218)

content Online
Ruby Saturday is a bit off of the regular circuit, but a worthwhile climb that takes a little thought.
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#36715 - 04/24/08 04:51 PM Re: Nemesis no more.... [Re: fear]
schwortz
member


Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 156
Loc: on the road
(75.48.104.187)

Offline
i second smike...
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