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#38227 - 07/03/08 10:43 AM
Nose Speed Record
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fallenglass
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Registered: 07/31/03
Posts: 263
Loc: cornwall
(71.169.27.117)
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I Heard this on the radio: Nose SPeed Record on NPR
I liked this bit in the copy: "Fifty years ago, President Warren Harding set out to climb El Capitan. It took him 47 days of repeated assaults, but he finally made it."
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#38229 - 07/03/08 11:27 AM
Re: Nose Speed Record
[Re: fallenglass]
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MarcC
Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 2709
Loc: Sandy, UT
(67.106.39.4)
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But Warren Harding was our big wall president!
Regarding the seemingly endless speed ascents, it's obvious that this little pissing contest is getting a bit old. I think the only logical thing to do to reinvigorate the entire Nose speed ascent concept is....two back-to-back Nose in a day speed ascents. It would of course have to include the time on the East Ledges descent and circling back to the start of the route. Or for variety's sake, The Nose and The Salathe.
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#38233 - 07/03/08 01:05 PM
Re: Nose Speed Record
[Re: MarcC]
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quanto_the_mad
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Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2111
Loc: brooklyn
(162.90.96.254)
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It would be quicker to BASE jump to the bottom.
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#38234 - 07/03/08 01:47 PM
Re: Nose Speed Record
[Re: quanto_the_mad]
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pedestrian
Pooh-Bah
Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 1861
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
(208.105.25.38)
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Seems like it would be more interesting to start shaving time off the all-free speed ascent record, presumably held by Tommy Caldwell. Seems like there should still be a lot of room for refinement in that area, but there are so few climbers able to even compete for it. Whereas we are at the point where new mixed free/aid speed records are being set by mere minutes, and the competition is getting kind of old.
Edited by pedestrian (07/03/08 01:48 PM)
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#38238 - 07/03/08 02:34 PM
Re: Nose Speed Record
[Re: pedestrian]
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empicard
Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2624
Loc: LI, NY
(69.124.12.215)
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then step up to the plate, bizzo!
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tOOthless
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
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#38239 - 07/03/08 02:47 PM
Re: Nose Speed Record
[Re: empicard]
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pedestrian
Pooh-Bah
Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 1861
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
(208.105.25.38)
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Nah, I'm glued to my armchair and can't escape.
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#38241 - 07/03/08 04:18 PM
Re: Nose Speed Record
[Re: pedestrian]
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RangerRob
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Registered: 06/05/00
Posts: 2333
Loc: Ulster County, NY
(76.15.46.224)
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I think it's cool, if not a bit "practiced". The all free ascent record gets into what exactly is the Nose route. Tommy did a variation if I remember correctly.
RR
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#38247 - 07/03/08 05:30 PM
Re: Nose Speed Record
[Re: RangerRob]
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pedestrian
Pooh-Bah
Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 1861
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
(208.105.25.38)
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The main variation is the traverse into the Changing Corners, right? I think Lynn Hill and Tommy both did variations to get in, with Tommy going lower. This is all based on my own poor memory and unreliable grasp of the basic facts...
Now the Ray Jardine chipped variation is interesting, I think it's finally been climbed, he wasn't able to climb his own chipped holds, right?
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#38248 - 07/03/08 05:59 PM
Re: Nose Speed Record
[Re: pedestrian]
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MarcC
Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 2709
Loc: Sandy, UT
(67.106.39.4)
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Now the Ray Jardine chipped variation is interesting, I think it's finally been climbed, he wasn't able to climb his own chipped holds, right?
IIRC, that's correct (interpreting your post to mean that it took others to actually climb Jardine's chipped holds). All free ascents of the Nose have used the Jardine Traverse (so if you really want to get semantically pissy, then the Nose has never gone free). Lynn Hill feels that it [the traverse] probably could have gone free without the chipping, but at mid/hard 12 instead of the 11c/d using the chipped holds.
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