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#9734 - 09/03/03 01:34 PM
Anyone Know the Name/Grade of ...?
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Matt
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Registered: 07/17/02
Posts: 4
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Does anyone know the name or grade of the Snooky's 2nd pitch variation that ascends to the right of the main line? (From Snooky's 1st belay, you follow the main line up a left facing corner to an overhang. Instead of traversing left 10 feet (along the main line), you diagonal up right, through a 5.7-ish move, until you join line of rusty pins that runs straight up outside of and left of the Minty chimney, to the GT ledge). The pins indicate that this has been done before. But, I don't see it named or graded as a route or variation in any guide book.
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#9735 - 09/03/03 02:24 PM
Re: Anyone Know the Name/Grade of ...?
[Re: Matt]
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Smooth_Al
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Registered: 06/17/03
Posts: 16
Loc: Jersey Shore
(209.219.209.68)
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I believe it is the 5.5 variation of Minty which is listed in the Williams' "Trapps" guide. After starting on the 2nd pitch of Snooky's on Sunday, I could have sworn that the route description said, "...traverse right 10 feet then go up." After going right I ran into two ladies climbing the Minty "chimney" who let me borrow their book. After realizing the traverse was 10 feet left, and with the lack of any good gear on the main route, I just scooted up the 5.5 and vowed to tackle Snooky's another day.
Was I missing something or does the second pitch of Snooky's have really bad gear?
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#9736 - 09/03/03 02:36 PM
Re: Anyone Know the Name/Grade of ...?
[Re: Smooth_Al]
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MarcC
Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 2776
Loc: Sandy, UT
(207.88.151.170)
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Quote:
Was I missing something or does the second pitch of Snooky's have really bad gear?
Granted it's not "toss in a nut whenever you like" terrain, but I never thought it was particularly bad. Perhaps a little sparse on the lower section, where it's around 5.5, but more reasonable where it gets steeper and you head straight up to the route's second crux. I remember using a lot of TCU's and maybe having to search around a little for the placements.
An often neglected pitch, but well worth doing. You can finish the climb by doing the Minty Overhang variation (5.5 but bizarre enough to feel like an 8) and <gasp> actually going to the top of the cliff!
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#9737 - 09/03/03 02:39 PM
Re: Anyone Know the Name/Grade of ...?
[Re: MarcC]
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CrackBoy
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Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2421
Loc: Republic of Davis
(169.237.17.191)
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i remember it being there when you wanted it. if i recall its that great knobby kind of rock so there werent too many good cracks, but i was never concerned about not finding gear. and if you are lucky you can throw half a quickdraw at phlan from midway up the second pitch
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#9740 - 09/03/03 05:01 PM
Re: Anyone Know the Name/Grade of ...?
[Re: Matt]
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dalguard
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Registered: 03/22/00
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The question is: does Snooky's really have a second pitch? And if so, are any two people out there doing the same one?
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#9741 - 09/03/03 06:00 PM
Re: Anyone Know the Name/Grade of ...?
[Re: dalguard]
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CrackBoy
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Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2421
Loc: Republic of Davis
(169.237.17.29)
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my p2 of snookeys went as follows:
from bolts head up and left a bit
when you get to a left facing cornerish area , stop and try to clip a quickdraw intoa piece but somehow unclip half of it from that rubber thingy that is suposed to clip it orientated and have it nearly nail phlan and peter sitting at the base. then head more left and up til you hit the lichen before which you head straight up to the top
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#9742 - 09/03/03 06:20 PM
Re: Anyone Know the Name/Grade of ...?
[Re: dalguard]
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MarcC
Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 2776
Loc: Sandy, UT
(207.88.151.170)
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Quote:
The question is: does Snooky's really have a second pitch? And if so, are any two people out there doing the same one?
Most definitely and yes, assuming they can read a guidebook.
From the p1 belay [the blocky constriction that used to have a bunch of slings tied around it - I don't know where the new bolts are located]...
Step right and climb left facing corner. At it's top (~20') traverse left for 25', just above a tiny overhang. Climb straight up steep, compact face, aiming just left of the base of a small right facing corner. Step right into corner (5.8-); up corner. At it's top, diagonal right to GT ledge. You are well to the left of the Minty chimney this entire pitch. After the initial corner, you are also left of the p1 belay. It's about 80' of climbing but because of the wandering line you'll use around 100' of rope.
The obvious 3rd pitch would be the Minty Overhang since the route ends right under it on the GT ledge.
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