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#9835 - 09/16/03 10:38 PM Ivan and the Saum
Dana
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Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 373
(159.14.209.238)

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It's a bit dirty and there's lots of loose rock.
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#9836 - 09/18/03 10:58 PM Re: Ivan and the Saum [Re: Dana]
paborden
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Registered: 07/18/03
Posts: 334
Loc: On the road...
(12.89.95.119)

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Is this post a...
a) question?
b) statement?
c) general observation?

As with many of the "hidden gem" routes being reccomended recently, that's no surprise to me...plus you can tell that just by standing at the base of double crack and looking at the thing. I might add that just 'cause something's dirty doesn't mean its not worthwhile...but hey, I still have enough multi-starred climbs I haven't gotten around to yet.

Plus, it's one of Ivan's routes and I've always found those...umm...interesting
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#9837 - 09/19/03 09:57 AM Re: Ivan and the Saum [Re: Dana]
Ivan Rezucha
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Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 20
Loc: Boulder, CO
(67.40.61.135)

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Read the Bragg interview, the part about adventure. These are not sport climbs prepared for the convenience of the masses. It IS a good climb.

Lichen won't hurt you. Did you know that the entire Trapps was covered with lichen when Hans and Fritz first visited? That's why the first route they did was at Millbrook (Old Route). The Trapps were unclimbable, so they thought. Eventually the cliffs cleaned up, part due to the passage of climbers, and part, I think, due to environmental changes (acid rain?).
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#9838 - 09/19/03 10:32 AM Re: Ivan and the Saum [Re: Ivan Rezucha]
paborden
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Registered: 07/18/03
Posts: 334
Loc: On the road...
(12.89.148.209)

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Ivan, remember what you said about Gunks standards slipping? Well, I think you hit the nail on the head.

God, I wish I was born twenty years earlier...
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#9839 - 09/19/03 11:53 AM Re: Ivan and the Saum [Re: Ivan Rezucha]
Dana
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Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 373
(65.128.240.108)

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I didn't say it was a bad climb; I actually enjoyed it. But it is dirty and loose and for me, those features were part of its appeal.
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#9840 - 09/19/03 12:36 PM Hi Jinx [Re: Dana]
phlan
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Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2389
Loc: Town of Shawangunk
(204.60.66.70)

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Hi Jinx is good too. maybe a little less loose rock. It is exciting and steep, and my partner had to finish it for me... the holds right at and above the crux move were encrusted in dirt... above the crux section it just gets too dirty though. I have not tried Ivan and the Saum yet.
Dirt and Lichen can be fun!
_________________________
"International Mystery Wannabee"

the better half of the chemical brothers

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#9841 - 09/19/03 12:49 PM Re: Hi Jinx [Re: phlan]
Ivan Rezucha
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Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 20
Loc: Boulder, CO
(67.40.61.135)

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How about Zig Zag Face just to the right? I remember a lot of lichen. And not much gear. Should we start a "Crusty Classics" thread? There must be a bunch in the middle of the nears (some are mine for sure). First pitch of Reach of Faith was pretty bad (mine again). Crustacean Syndrome? There must be some crusty climbs that are NOT mine...
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#9842 - 09/19/03 01:13 PM Re: Day Tripper Direct [Re: Ivan Rezucha]
paborden
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Registered: 07/18/03
Posts: 334
Loc: On the road...
(12.89.90.35)

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Even though it has a star (and is a damn good route, by the way) Day Tripper Direct was surprisingly dirty--one of the key holds was completely encrusted in dirt and moss...but it should be a lot better now.

Speaking of which...has anyone ever thought of linking up the Boston Tree Party open book with the finish to Day Tripper Direct? You'd have to go left at the BTP roof instead of the usual right, but it looks like it'd be really cool...avoiding the grunge on the DTD chimney thing.


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#9843 - 09/19/03 02:49 PM Re: Day Tripper Direct [Re: paborden]
Dana
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Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 373
(159.14.209.238)

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Interesting replies to my original post. I simply said what is true about the route and people read all sorts of things into the statement.
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#9844 - 09/19/03 02:51 PM Re: Day Tripper Direct [Re: Dana]
Dana
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Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 373
(159.14.209.238)

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Reach of Faith was pretty good, I thought.
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